LEJ's Mardi Gras Glossary / February 2018
Yours Truly in a Swamp
by Leonard Earl Johnson
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LEJ's Mardi Gras Glossary
and History
BY Leonard Earl Johnson
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LEJ dressed to ride, at Parc Sans Souci, Lafayette photo credit Frank Parsley |
LEJ.org in New Orleans with Mardi Gras Maidens / photo: Anson Trahan ~ for high definition click image ~ |
Follow as you read and become one with the
Greatest Free Show on Earth,
Carnival in Louisiana!
Janis Turk and Karissa Kary photo Janis Turk |
Carnival celebrants / NOLa |
Begins every year on January 6, but ends at different days on the calendar ~ but always on Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent ~ a day that, by Canon Law, changes location in the month.
This is done to keep Lent ever forty-suffering days long. To achieve this wrongheaded end, joyful-Carnival must shrink some years.
It Swells others.
2018 is one of the shortest of the next ten years.
"It moves," L. A. Norma says, "it's alive!"
Ball (tableau ball) ~ A masked party featuring performances of scenes in still-life representing a specific theme. Can be deadly dull. Can be uproariously funny.
Movable tableau on Carnival Day (Mardi Gras) are the funniest. Who can forget the Westbank Big Hair Emergency Repair Krewe marching along, stopping to fix misshapen bouffants along parade routes of yore?
Boeuf Gras ~ The fatted bull or ox ~ in the Rex parade ~ representing sweetly excessive death-to-the-fat, and the beginning of Lenten abstinence (true death). Said by journalists-emeriti and Mardi Gras overseers Arthur Hardy, and Errol Laborde to be the most photographed sight of Carnival.
Boeuf Gras ~ Rex parade ~ Mardi Gras ~ NOLa |
Captain ~ Leader of each Mardi Gras organization.
Court ~ The king, queen, maids and dukes of each Mardi Gras organization. There is a hierarchy here culminating in Rex. However, no court or krewe is more important than the one you are in.
Rex Doubloon Wikipedia |
Rex ~ One of the "Big Four" ~ oldest four krewes of New Orleans Carnival ~ founded in 1872 by a group calling itself, The School of Design. Ponder such a krewe name ~ with its religious, mythological and historical resonance ~ and you will see dimly into the mysteries of Carnival.
Krewe insignia on one side and the parade theme on the obverse. Doubloons were first introduced 1959-60 by New Orleans artist H. Alvin Sharpe. They were gold colored aluminium and first thrown by Rex in 1960. For a few years they were generically called Rex Doubloons. Today doubloons are thrown by many krewes in various colors, themes and names.
King Cake ~ This is an oval cake (traditionally brioche but today anything)
King Cake with Baby |
in Mardi Gras tricolor, with a plastic baby doll hidden inside.
It is called 'King Cake' because it commemorates the visit of the Three Kings to see the baby Jesus, a Christian epiphany.
Epiphany means an appearance or manifestation of a divine being. The baby doll is loosely seen as the
Epiphanous Baby Jesus, and concurrently
all temporal joys-on-Earth.
Songwriter/singer/musician Al Johnson's beloved Carnival Time opens with the line, "The Green Room is smokin' and the Plaza's burnin' down / Throw my Baby out the window, let those joints burn down..." An act of rescue or callous disregard? Or,
as we see it in New Orleans, both!
The person who finds the doll is crowned "King" and buys the next colorful cake and gives the next party.
In New Orleans, the first Carnival parade each year is organized by a happily knit group of swells on Twelfth Night, January 6 (King Cake Day, a.k.a. Epiphany). This krewe calls themselves the Phuny Phorty Phellows.
Phunny Phorty Phellows Street Car Parade / NOLA.com |
Originally parading on foot on Mardi Gras Day behind Rex, today they ride the Saint Charles Streetcar in colorful costumes, on Epiphany night. Sometimes with brassy music. Around car stops and the Car Barn can be good spots to see this first-of-season show.
Krewe ~ a generic term for all Carnival organizations and clubs. Greek, Roman and Egyptian mythology are sources for half the krewe names. Some clubs are named after neighborhoods, while others are named after historical figures or places.
Rio parade, Lafayette |
Amid large parades in Acadiana's Hub City of Lafayette rolls the samba-swinging Krewe of Carnival en Rio.
Clubs are chartered by most cities as non-profit entities and are financed by dues, by sale of krewe-emblemed merchandise to members (who give them as favors) and by fund-raising projects. Mardi Gras krewes are sometimes involved in charity work. But not much.
Lundi Gras ~ French for Fat Monday (Mardi Gras is French for Fat Tuesday). "Fat" is a broad term for prosperity and joy, the very things being done in Carnival-excess before somber Lent takes them all away.
The Day before Mardi Gras from 1897 to 1917 was celebrated by arrival of Rex aboard a steamboat on the Mississippi River. In 1987, under the New Orleans Mayoralty of Sidney Barthelemy, a local
Courtesy of Zulu Social Aid and Pleasure Club |
seminarian turned Tulane trained master-of-sociology ~ with mild manners and movie star looks ~ revived the practice. Ultimately with the addition of King Zulu.
Each year since ~ aboard separate vessels, and for the last few years, Rex has come on the streetcar.
Zulu and Rex arrive at Spanish Plaza and greet each other, at the foot of Poydras Street.
"One River Two Boats!" ~ L. A. Norma wrote at the time in a letter to the old Times-Picayune daily.
Comus does not currently parade ~ a bitter hangover from political battles with former City Council Woman, Dorothy Mae Taylor, over race restrictions in luncheon clubs and Carnival krewes.
Comus and Rex still hold an elaborate meeting-of-the-courts ball on Mardi Gras night. But only Rex parades.
Lee Circle, Saint Charles Avenue, New Orleans from Confederate Memorial Hall Museum |
a musician I know says.
Zulu ~ A black krewe formed some forty years after the Civil War, and the post-war
click image to read caption |
The obelisk commemorates the bloody battle of 14 September 1874. It was part of a terrorist plot that removed the elected governor, William Pitt Kellogg. The inscription on the monument refers to the National Elections two years later ~ 1876 ~ as the moment that ended failed-Reconstruction, and united Louisiana White Supremacy with Yankee Jim Crow Laws. Names of whites, "cop killers" fallen in the battle, were inscribed in the stone. Names of fallen blacks, sworn policemen, were not.
our pedicab driver says.
New Orleans Civil War Era US Custom House and Post Office free downloadable poster |
"At best," Norma chortled from inside a plume of cigarette smoke.
Some think the insurrection should be sharply remembered. In words like William Faulkner's,
our past is not forgotten, it is not even past.
And Action!
Two out-of-town deconstruction companies hired to remove New Orleans' Confederate memorials asked out of their contracts because of death threats. One, H and O Investments owner, David Mahler, had his $200,000 Lamborghini torched in the company's Baton Rouge parking lot.
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For three days, in 1874, Governor Kellogg and his cronies (krewe?) took refuge in the recently built U. S. Custom House and Post Office, a handsome Union thumbprint first occupied in 1856 ~ as war clouds gathered ~ and serving through the Nineteenth Century (including the years of War Between the States) as the U. S. Post Office and U. S. Custom House. Remember NOLa spent The War occupied, having surrendered one year after Sumter (April 12, 1861) to the first Yankee reaching the steps of Gallier Hall, on April 29, 1862.
The Old Custom House still stands, at 423 Canal Street, across North Peters Street from Brooks Brothers, and not more than a block away from the site of the Battle of Liberty Place. Today the crestfallen edifice is home to the Audubon Butterfly Garden and Insectarium.
"The Bug House," Norma calls it.
The following is one of history's odder foot notes ~ a darkly clouded background to Louisiana's Devil-may-care Carnival ~ involving clueless white Louisianans sending a delegation to President Grant, offering help reopening the Port of New Orleans by establishment of a new confederacy.
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It was, however, reestablishment of a new Confederacy they were talking about, though this time aligned more with Washington and less with London.
Earlier masterminds had even sent a delegation to plead their case before Ulysses S. Grant, recently home from The War, and newly elected to steady the wheel of the US ship of state.
They told President Grant their Big Swamp City, port of New Orleans would make a fine seat for this new Confederacy.
Having personally just fought the Civil War to defeat Robert E. Lee and such a Confederacy,
Grant reasoned he must now send in troops to free Governor Kellogg. He said no, to the boys from Louisiana, and sent them safely home to moan and groan over their grillades and grits for the next century and a half.
One wonders if Grant might have hanged them ~ it was surely treason they were preaching. Or if they were civil and polite at a sociable meeting that might have taken place at the Willard Hotel? Did they drink whiskey? We figure Grant did. Did any of the Louisiana boys visit the famous pleasure houses of the victorious capitol?
Sherman was from Ohio, and a recent graduate of West Point.
He was not yet a Union general when he was hired, in 1859, as first president of the newly founded
"Sherman burned Atlanta," our cabbie said,
The old line krewes did not like this and had been working for some way to stop it ever since it started.
Courtesy of Zulu Social Aid and Pleasure Club |
"You can imagine the indignity of a float full of white-faced blacks coming up behind your Fatted Ox throwing coconuts!" Norma says this to visitors as she blows Camel Cigarette smoke in their faces ~ this time of year likely laced with medicinal Marijuana.
Rex |
Celebrant, NOLa / Carlos Detres |
Throws include doubloons, plastic cups and beads with and without krewe emblems.
Hangover ~ This one you may already know. It is most appropriate for Ash Wednesday.
"And the Giant Omelet Celebration," L. A. Norma adds.
LEJ.world T-shirt |
Still it is not unheard of to entertain more than one festival per town. Lafayette, Baton Rouge, and New Orleans have them almost weekly.
"Daily in Baton Rouge," Norma says, "when the legislature is in session."
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil |
Courir de Mardi Gras |
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And if you happen to be one of those 'smart and glum' watchers, perhaps you should consider Mobile, Alabama ~ New Orleans' Carnival Mother ~ their Carnival is boredom-friendly. We rode off on another horse, grew grander than hoped, and party harder than expected, until the Purple Vestments come out in the Cathedral on Ash Wednesday.
Norma adds,
Contact me if you want on the list that may get e-mailed. If you wish to read any month's column go to www.LEJ.org anytime. They are posted on the first of each month and polished for the next few weeks. |
Original Recording ~ 1960
at
Cosimo Matassa's Recording Studio
New Orleans
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(old Carnival song)
Dixie Cups
Mardi Gras Wars
The New Orleans Agenda
The Advocate Newspapers
Gambit, Best of New Orleans
The Times-Picayune
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Royal at Kerlerec, Faubourg Marigny, NOLa / photo by Janis Turk |
It is written by Leonard Earl Johnson
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© 2018 Leonard Earl Johnson,
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