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Location: New Orleans, Louisiana, United States

Leonard Earl Johnson (photo credit Frank Parsley) covered Hurricanes Katrina and Rita (2005), and the 2010 British Petroleum oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico for ConsumerAffairs.com. He is a contributor to Gambit Weekly, New Orleans Magazine, SCAT, Baton Rouge Advocate, Advocate Magazine, The Times-Picayune, Country Roads Magazine, Palm Springs Newswire and the books FRENCH QUARTER FICTION (Light of New Orleans Publishing), LOUISIANA IN WORDS (Pelican Publishing), LIFE IN THE WAKE (NOLAfuges.com), and more. Johnson is a former Merchant Seaman, and columnist at Les Amis de Marigny, New Orleans; and African-American Village. Attended Southern Illinois University, Carbondale, and Harry Lundeberg School of Seamanship at Piney Point, Maryland. Winner of the Press Club of New Orleans Award for Excellence, 1991, and given the Key to The City and a Certificate of Appreciation from the New Orleans City Council for a Gambit Weekly story on murder in the French Quarter.

Monday, October 01, 2018

Roberts Cove Germanfest / October 2018


~    ~    ~
Coming in Next Month's Column
November's Splash from The Swamp
"~ At the ~"


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LEJ's Louisiana
Yours Truly in a Swamp
Monthly e-column @ www.LEJ.org 

 by
Leonard Earl Johnson,
of Lafayette and New Orleans


German Flags on the first Unity Day ~ 3 October 1990 ~ Berlin   /   Wikipedia


Roberts Cove German Festival 
~ a fine sense of place ~
October 2018

by Leonard Earl Johnson

© 2018, Leonard Earl Johnson, All Rights Reserved
*    *    *

Oktoberfest! 
In Roberts Cove, Louisiana. You Laugh? 

It might tickle the lederhosen off a real German, but this is the best ~ albeit somewhat zany ~ American German Festival that I have ever attended.  


My Mother's Family is German.  Please bear with me.  I have been to a lot of such festivals.

Roberts Cove's has good beer, joyful singing, echoing Alphorn(Alpine horns), thrilling yodeling, white marble graves of original settlers decorated with vibrant black-red-and-gold German flags, and hot spicy (normally mild veal with a hint of nutmeg), Bratwurst Sausages cooked into a gumbo-stew of white potatoes and cabbage flavored with Tabasco Sauce. 

Technically Roberts Cove's festival is a Germanfest, not an Oktoberfest

Oktoberfest is the German harvest / Munich Bier (beer) festival starting in September and ending the first weekend of October or, of late, Tag der Deutschen Einheit (German Unity Day), 3 October 1990, when East and West Germany reunited.

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German immigrants were few to French Louisiana, but those who came left their mark.  


Notably there were Germans lured over to Louisiana by the promoter, John Law, a Scotsman turned English and then French. 


Those industrious Germans were said to have been disappointed to find themselves transported to a subtropical Swamp, but being industrious Germans went on to feed the early indolent folk of New Orleans from productive farms along the Côte des Allemands (French for German Coast) around present day Bayou des Allemands (Bayou of the Germans). 


The Mississippi Bubble

Hurricanes, floods, and the collapse of John Law's Mississippi Company and his monetary schemes ~ he invented paper money ~ scattered the settlement, and New Orleanians took further to suffering sustenance from bountiful seafood, sugar, rice, and game.


Bayou  des  Allemands  /  Courtesy  of  Wikipedia

Some of John Law's Germans resettled near Lafayette, Louisiana at today's prosperous rice-growing settlement of Roberts Cove.

~*~   ~*~   ~*~

On our way, crossing Bayou des Allemands, aboard Amtrak, westbound from New Orleans ~ where traces of  Faubourg Marigny's German origins are known simply and dismissively as 'the lost Germans.'  
Amtrak  overwater  /  Courtesy  of  Amtrak

On the banks of the Bayou we witnessed three des Allemand boys mooning ole Train #1, the Sunset Limited.


From the bayou banks two white and one black rear end shined up at us as we sipped morning coffee and zipped along an old rusty rouge iron bridge.

"Some things change," L. A. Norma said, raising her coffee to the window, "Some things don't!"  

"Boys still moon trains," I observed, "but now they are integrated." 

"Rosa Parks would be proud!" Norma said.

*    *    *

"Do you speak German?" asked a friendly lady with a heavy Cajun accent. She was descended from original Roberts Cove Germans, she told us.  

Her Cajun accent came from the fact French-Canadian Cajuns had taught her late-arrival ancestors how to speak English.  


We were in the Songfest Zelt (Tent), yodeling and listening to Alphorns.

"Bisschen Deutsch,I said. She understood the "Deutsch," but not the "Bisschen."

"A Little," I explained.

We raised our bier and joined in the Rucksack Song.  Her husband wore well-stitched lederhosen and sang with great gusto. I would bet my last Deutsche Mark he sang those same songs when a boy.

~     ~    ~

In the middle of a sugarcane field near Roberts Cove is Hawk's, a
 crayfish cafe' noted for purging
their "mud bugs." 

Hawk's also prides itself on no signage.  Finding it is something of a local game. Outsiders searching are, of course, a double muddled source of local entertainment. 


One day, successfully washing up at Hawk's dining-room wash basins, I asked a man at the basin next to mine where he was from.


The man said, "Down the road."


"Is your name German?" I asked.

"No," he said, "further down the road."

"A sense of place is a fine and settling thing,"
L. A. Norma said, swilling a mudbug with her tall beer.


*     *     *


Your comments and corrections are welcome:  Comments

Musik Audio: Alpine Horns  (Alphorns)

Lagniappe du Jour 
Copyright, 2018, 
Leonard Earl Johnson
All Rights
 Reserved



Your comments and corrections are welcome: Comments

For more L. E. J.'s Louisiana, Yours Truly in a Swamp go to 
w w w . L E J . o r g


LEJ's Louisiana, Yours Truly in a Swamp
is a monthly e-column @ www.LEJ.org
~ Hosted on GOOGLE Blogger ~
and periodically 
at Les Amis de Marigny, New Orleans,
publication of the
It is written by Leonard Earl Johnson
of Lafayette and New Orleans, Louisiana
Archives: www.LEJ.org


Read November's Splash from The Swamp



~    ~    ~
© 2018, Leonard Earl Johnson, All Rights Reserved.
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Saturday, September 01, 2018

Post Katrina Review / September 2018

LEJ's Louisiana
Yours Truly in a Swamp
Monthly e-column @
 www.LEJ.org
by Leonard Earl Johnson,
of Lafayette and New Orleans
Archives: www.LEJ.org

*     *     *

~    ~     ~
Coming, 1 October 2018

Roberts Cove's Germanfest

A Fine Sense of Place 
LEJ.org ✍️
~    ~     ~


Post~Katrina Review, 2018

September 2018

by Leonard Earl Johnson
www.LEJ.org
© 2018, Leonard Earl Johnson, All Rights Reserved.
*     *     * 

Courtesy of Patricia Brennan 
The World's first train to carry a personalized name, 'the Sunset Limited,' pulled in to New Orleans' Union Passenger Terminal two hours and twenty-two minutes late, on the day before Katrina Day 2018

We were returning for an annual month of remembering that day, August 29, 2005, when w
e turned the lock on Squalor Heights ~ our Faubourg Marigny garrett ~ to never again return to the life lived in that neighborhood for forty-some years. 


Katrina racked up the largest storm-loss in American history, Including 
Super-storm Sandy, Hurricanes Rita, Gustav, Harvey, and Maria ~ all ushering in times more painful than poets or politicians easily salved. 



*    *    *  

The Nation bonded deeply with Katrina's epic loss. 


Death danced with itself and surrounded us ~ then we locked just as deeply in the arms of Hope and Resurrection, succeeding by our own efforts, the efforts of strangers, and reluctant con-servative politicians.  


"New Orleans, the first town FEMA forgot," Norma snorts over her morning coffee.

We personally slid on and off Louisiana's slippery Road Home, finally finding peace decamping to Acadiana, happily rebooting to a new Life of eating cold potato salad along with the rice in our hot gumbo, and riding Amtrak's ageing ironhorse back and forth to Big Swamp City.  

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Courtesy: Rosa Parks Transportation Centré
New Orleans itself re-booted well, with thousands of newer versions ~ even glamorous movie-making versions ~  of ourselves eating, drinking and schmoozing in hundreds more restaurants, cafes, coffee shops, and bars. 

Establishments old and new are filled with returned versions of us, and bright new faces from every corner of Earth ~ all eager to join our famed civic parade.

We sit with these new New Orleanians, talking movies as if we were the largest movie-making state in the Union. 

Well, we were!  Before Louisiana's delusionally presidential 
Governor Bobby Jindal and his hired band of Washington Beltway advisers whittled us back down to a backwater movie plantation. 


"Bible-thumping, budget-juggling, selfserving
 'Out-of-Town Bobby'," L. A. Norma says, throwing her arms towards the heavens.  Then folding them back down on herself. 


We talk with these new movie people as if we know their business as well as we know the bars on Frenchmen Street.  


One night, before Jindal's Republican dystopia had fully kicked in, we took dinner aboard the Sunset Limited out of Los Angeles, with a charming film ingénue relocating, "... from 'L. A.' to 'LA,' for movie work."  


She told us, two days later, as we rocked across the Atchafalaya Basin, nearing New Orleans, of her excitement relocating to "Hollywood South."  


We shared our own first-arrival from Illinois on the train called, The City of New Orleans.  Her traveling companion, a young artist inspired by Norman Rockwell, told us she liked Louisiana, but she planned on taking the train back to California in a few days, "Because it has cleaner lines, better spatial definition than Louisiana."

"Holy cow!" Norma said.

*    *    * 


"New Orleans has changed," Norma says.

But she still sees plump Ignatius Riley almost every time she rides the streetcar. 


Norma is referring to the novel, A CONFEDERACY OF DUNCES, and its protagonist, Ignatius J. Riley ~ author John Kennedy Toole's knee-slapper character whose story captures perfectly the spirit of pre-K New Orleans. 


Today's Ignatius, however, uses i-pads and smartphones in ways that would 
have caused his earlier incarnation's heart flap to flutter, infuriating his Mother, and launching his New York girlfriend on another tour de force awakening Wee The People of The Swamp.



*    *    *



LEJ signing at the Cabildo before The Storm
 wearing a kiss from GiO
the loveliest of Bourbon Street dancers.

Early during the Katrina evacuation, we found New Orleans columnist Chris Rose speaking one night at a kind of teach-in at the Acadiana Center for the Arts, on Vermilion Street, in Lafayette, 
where I taught creative writing to the storm's scattered.


Rose
 said the storm's affect was so vast and life-changing that it 
would be an above-the-fold story ten years into the future.  


Now it has been thirteen years.  


Look at the front page ~ if you can find one ~ and see if the story of Katrina and its diaspora are not still there, perhaps above the digital fold.


*    *    *

In the years since Katrina blew us across the Atchafalaya and Hurricane Rita, three weeks later, welcomed us to Acadiana, I have learned differences between things I had not even known were things.  Like Bousillage and Boudin.

Bousillage is a mud-and-moss building material favored by early 
Cajuns and current day restorationists. 


Boudin is a rice and liver sausage equally favored and eaten at gas stations, crossroad stores, and white-tablecloth restaurants all across French Louisiana.

More than a million Louisianians were scattered by the winds of  '05. Thousands remain dispersed, and a popular bumper sticker appeared on distant freeways saying, "Be a New Orleanian wherever you are!"  


"That we are," L. A. Norma says, "mais oui!"*

---------------------------------
*Mais oui:  Technically, this is French meaning 'but, yes'.  In South Louisiana, it's basically an interjection that more or less means “Well then, yes” and is used to show delight, shock, exasperation ~ any number of such things as defined by the speaker's usage.


© 2018, Leonard Earl Johnson, All Rights Reserved.

Your comments and corrections are welcome: Comments

Lagniappe du jour



~    ~    ~

~ Great Music for that Katrina-time and now ~





~ With post K Video ~






"Great telling of New Orleans character and characters."~ L. A. Norma

~     ~     ~
Copyright, 2018Leonard Earl Johnson, All Rights Reserved



Your comments and corrections are welcome: Comments

For more L. E. J.'s Louisiana, Yours Truly in a Swamp go to 
w w w . L E J . o r g

*   *   *   *   *   *
*   *   *
LEJ's Louisiana, Yours Truly in a Swamp
is a monthly e-column @ www.LEJ.org
~ Hosted on GOOGLE Blogger ~
and periodically 
at Les Amis de Marigny, New Orleans,
publication of the
It is written by Leonard Earl Johnson
of Lafayette and New Orleans, Louisiana
Archives: www.LEJ.org

© 2018, Leonard Earl Johnson, All Rights Reserved.
* * * * * * * * * * * *  * *
Coming in October 2018

Roberts Cove's German Fest

A Fine Sense of Place