FILM, FIRE, AND TRAINS / January 2017
Monthly e-column @ www.LEJ.org
by Leonard Earl Johnson,
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BY Leonard Earl Johnson
© 2017, Leonard Earl Johnson, All Rights Reserved
Amtrak's Sunset Limited left the Union Passenger Terminal exactly on time. New Orleans is a "terminal town," a rail-head. Meaning here is where the tracks begin ~ or end.
Here trains arrive off-schedule as any deteriorated third-world rail system, anywhere. But here they routinely depart on time for all directions, "But South!", L. A. Norma says, smiling through a cloud of Camel Cigarette smoke.
We rolled under the Claiborne Street and I-10 overpasses, and snaked through chain-link protected barren lots filled with railroad bric-a-brac, and general population discard. Outside the fenced area are homeless camps. Under a highway overpass, a bright blue tent had a sleek silver Motobecane bicycle outside its open flap. Inside the tent we glimpsed two bearded men passing a joint.
"Some new Jack Kerouac on the road," L. A. Norma said, pointing with her coffee cup out the observation car's windows. "Or another Eric Hoffer?"
She is telling this to a young lady from England, who is on her way to Beaumont, Texas and from there a bus to Galveston Island. The woman worked for a huge investment firm with offices in London. She travels constantly, she says, often visiting Louisiana.
From Brexit to Trumpit!
"Looking for investment bargains?" Norma asks. "Making America a great colony again?" she adds, blowing over her steaming coffee.
Norma subscribes to an idea that Donald Trump, "With his vestigial Habsburg jaw," is the spearhead of a very old world order passing itself off as new.
She thinks he is trying to re-throne the Holy Roman Empire, and will leave his New World followers bedazzled, dazed and broken amid polluted fields littered with their fallen torches and pitchforks.
The English woman says no, "Merely a tourist who likes New Orleans. I love this place!
"Last April I was here, at the famed Roddie Romero and The Hub City All-Stars concert in the Historic New Orleans Collection's courtyard. It was a night of musical history."
Norma agreed ~ we, too, had been there. Romero and The Hub City All-Stars moved musical standards higher that night in one of those concerts where audience and musicians feed each other ~ the firing of that elusive spark you attend live performances in hopes of seeing.
The Historic New Orleans Collection is a rare spark itself. A museum endowed by KEMPER AND LEILA WILLIAMS, heirs to Louisiana's oldest lumber fortune. Bequeathed and dedicated to the preservation of New Orleans and its historic, social and cultural interactions. Nothing this venerable institution has ever done along those lines can top Roddie Romero's April 2016 concert.
The H. N. O. C. is housed in properties donated or bought with funds from the earliest harvest of Louisiana cypress trees. A stunningly profitable industry of yon colonial days. Logs from those first cuts lost in harvest, and found today, fetch thousands and thousands of dollars because the wood is impervious to rot and bugs ~ two things we have in lavish supply along America's Third Coast, Louisiana.
Further down the line, next to the Mississippi River levee, we pass a small farmhouse surrounded by a large flock of grey and white geese.
"Some French Quarter tourist will eat one of those birds' liver tonight," Norma tells the young lady from England.
One night earlier, at the New Orleans Film Festival, a filmmaker from Cuba ~ in a Frenchmen Street dance hall ~ handed me a disk. It was the movie, LA PARTIDA (THE LAST MATCH), a classic Cuban sports story of a straying young hero yearning for capitalist dollars ~ with a twist.
Our sports hero sleeps with men and women. No shocker these days. But in this "wed me and save me saga," the young man's girlfriend's mother (to whom he has given a Grandson, and from whom he borrowed a tv for pawn without permission) urges him to pursue a visiting middle aged man with eyes for him, and a passport from a country with legalized gay-marriage. Marry the Spaniard, she pleads, and save us all from the American embargo ~ thought to be more the source of their economic woe than Communism. The film is, "real Cuba," the filmmaker assured me.
"Its greater message is the thing that causes us to adore sports heroes," Norma said, after watching. A good film. Recommended, if you can find it.
We live in interesting times, sigh!
A time that calls for caution, say the wise Chinese ancients.
ELEVEN on Elysian Fields, Faubourg Marigny ~ New Orleans by Jason Kims |
ELEVEN on Elysian Fields, by Jason Kims, is located across from the lakeside-downtown gate to Washington Square Park.
It is made from a varietal of leftover iron disks gathered from Birmingham, Alabama forgers (hear echos of Civil War cannon). Eleven life sized figures looking out from a circle, standing in the neutral ground of Elysian Fields. It tickles the eye and moves the soul.
The title refers not to the eleven years after Katrina, but to the eleven men who died in the British Petroleum Deepwater Horizon drilling rig explosion, in 2010. Deepwater spewed an ocean of oil into the Gulf of Mexico for five months. The young English woman said she had not seen it, but had heard of the spill.
ELEVEN on Elysian Fields ~ Faubourg Marigny, New Orleans |
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Copyright, 2017, Leonard Earl Johnson, All Rights Reserved
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Habsburg Jaw - Image Results
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Roddie Romero and the Hub City All-Stars